Fish and Wine - Mandalay to Inle Lake

Traditional fishing using the foot to steer the boat

The flight to Inle Lake took us over the mountains which look amazing.  The flight lasts only 35 minutes and we’re down no sooner than we are up but still have time to witness the stunning views.

Inle lake is the main focus for everything in the area and there is a whole industry working around the water. However, Inle Lake is also famous for growing grapes and producing wine so we headed off to a little wine tasting session at the Red Mountain Estate. We arrive at a perfect time to capture the sun setting over the fields and lake which stretches into the distance.

The taste of the wine was ‘interesting’ but I don’t think France has anything to worry about just yet.  All the different wines, red and white have a similar taste which to be honest was earthy, and which John described using 4 letters which I will not print!

I get ready for the sampling - and the wine tasted like samples

We are up early for a trip on the lake. Our boat is a traditional long canoe with wooden chairs placed strategically with the life vests used as cushions.

The long tailed canoes lie in wait for the tourists

All life takes place on the water and to access the small stilted villages we pass through narrow water ways that are lined with reeds and filled with water plants.

We navigate the narrow channels

Who needs a hand rail?

Our first stop is at a local market where all manor of goods from tooth paste to chicken heads can be purchased.  The chicken head seller draws a crowd, but only of flies and the local dogs that she chases off by throwing water at them.

It's a good job you can't experience the smell of the dried fish stall

Mmmm - chicken heads, feet and gizzards

The dogs are keen on the chicken heads

A nice pair of melons

The hawkers are skilled in prising money from tourists for trinkets but we are more interested in people watching and they fail to open our wallets.  Most of the stuff looks to be old and shabby but it’s probably knocked off in a shed in China.  Old coins are interesting but John is suspicious as every old rupee is dated 1919 – you really can’t trust the age of anything in the market.

Mr Green inspects the local produce

Back on the main waterway

The pylons carrying power to villages look rickety

We call into lots of small cottage (lakeland) industries making Silverware, fabrics and cheroots to name but a few.  All produce tiny quantities yet the show rooms attached to the workshops are packed to the rafters.  We’re told that it’s all made on site but we think the Chinese sheds are working overtime.  In many cases it’s the same tat as we see ashore but the prices are exorbitant and justified by the words ‘better quality’.

Not sure who these teeth belong to - Janet Street Porter?

No sign of a dusky maiden's thigh in the sheroot rolling workshop

 We were pleased when we stopped at a little floating restaurant for lunch although the bobbing sensation whilst eating was a little unsettling.

We visited a temple where the tourist boats were packed in.  On the approach we see the temple’s barge covered in gold and resembling Big Bird out of Sesame Street.  At this temple men stick their gold to what look like big peanuts!

Villagers practice leg rowing 

Inside these golden blobs swollen by the application of gold foil are 5 Buddhas

The Cat Jumping Temple was a let down – apparently the cats which were trained by patient monks to jump through hoops have long gone – maybe the monks lack patience nowadays?

The Inla fishermen propel their fishing boats with a unique rowing action.  They wrap one leg around the paddle to drive the blade through the water in a snake like action whilst keeping their hands free to manage the nets.

Farmers tend floating gardens

Our train journey to the hill station of Kalaw begins with a bumpy rickshaw ride to the station.  We manage to secure upper class seats at a cost of 1,150 Kyats (70p) and set of on time on our journey of 50km which takes us through the mountains, crossing bridges and through narrow cuttings.  The journey takes 3.5 hours and is a rocking and rolling affair.

Luxurious 'Upper' class

We cross the low lands where the buffalo work hard to plough the fields whilst women and children work alongside the men.  Everyone stops to wave at the train which is treated as a novelty although it runs every day.

Approaching each station along the way, the train driver blasts his horn to alert the hawkers of our arrival.   They descend on the train with every imaginable food which they sell through the train windows.  There are fruits and veg, crisps and rice cakes and little cakes and fried foods – along with eggs and odd looking bags of liquids.

The stations are a hive of activity with lots of trading taking place and goods loaded and unloaded to take them to the next station.  Our ‘luxury’ carriage doubles a s a goods wagon with the empty seats being loaded with sacks of produce, usually carted up by straining women.

Packed to the rafters with coconuts

 At Aung Ban station, the hawkers are supported by some local nutters who add to the entertainment as they bark at the moon.  They shout at the children, the women and the passengers – I’m sure one was saying ‘next stop Barry Island’.  Another, is his natty trousers is teaching his children the art of kite flying.

Kalaw is a small hill station used as a starting point for hiking in the mountains and to Inle Lake.  I suspect that hiking might be a quicker alternative to the train.  The town is quiet and sleepy. Even the temples don’t appear to have many visitors although it is likely that they are off hiking.

30 hours from Yangon to Shwen Yaung - Pity the ordinary classes

The train pulls into Kalaw

After an anxious wait for tickets (there a lot more tourists heading down to Inle Lake) we manage to secure our Upper Returns rather than having to rough it in Ordinary Class.  The best bit of the return journey is a chance to lean out of the windows and soak up the views, the best of which is the rattle over the Ba Wa Sam Sa Ra bridge. 

One of life's pleasures - leaning out of the train window

Not for the faint hearted - lurching about in the pitch dark

That’s the lot for now – We wish you all the Best for 2017.